Perugia

Perugia in Umbria. I so wanted to come this place after reading the book “When in Rome” about a thirty year old Australian lass who came to Perugia University to study language and culture for six months, and that was my dream, to do the same. What a magnificent place to live and study. I so want to come back. The old city is just unbelievably beautiful, and I cannot even begin to imagine how these magnificent churches and cathedrals were built. They are so huge, so beautifully ornate – carvings, statues, paintings – and it is all up on top of a hill.

I caught the bus up, and tried to follow the route on the map as I went so I got off at the right place, but I couldn't work out where I was. For a start, the bus came in the opposite direction to where I thought it would come from. All the other traffic appeared to be going in one direction only, down the hill, and I was waiting on the opposite side of the road to the hotel, so I tried to orientate myself to where I was going. It didn't make a lot of sense, and then after waiting in the hot sun the bus pulled up, going the other direction. Didn't make sense to me at all, but this is Italy after all. So I then turned my map upside down and tried to work out where I was, but couldn't so decided I would just get out at the top of the hill. Aha, not as easy as I thought – one stop we were definitely still heading distinctly uphill, and the next stop we were heading down, so I got out at the next one, asked a young guy on a motor cycle to point out where I was on the map, and how to get to the citta centero, and he pointed across the road and to some steps. Oh boy, and I don't just mean a few steps, I mean lots of

steps. So off I go, luckily they are in the shade, it is only 9am and already it is stinking hot.
So I climb the first lot of steps, and around the corner a whole lot more, and then more and

then more, and then into a narrow little lane still heading up and so on I go till I reach the top. But, what a spectacular place when I got there – opening out into a huge piazza. So beautiful, so old, so quiet, so peaceful.

There are a few vehicles about, even in the narrow wee lanes, lots of people, but it wasn't awfully crowded and it certainly wasn't noisy. I wandered in and out of buildings, shops, churches, museums, down wee lanes, back up another. I went into the cathedral. It was awesome. So huge, so ornate, so cool, so peaceful. All around are signs saying no photos, so I resist the temptation to take photos in there, although lots of other tourists ignore the signs and cameras click and flashes go off all around the place. But after-all it is a place of worship, not just a tourist spot, so I respect the signs. I will just have to try and memorise the beautiful stained glass windows, the carved and painted ceilings, the huge (and I mean huge) paintings on the wall, the huge pieces of silverware in the wrought iron cages at the back of the church, the beautiful carved alcoves where people could light candles, and the biggest statue of Christ on the Cross that I have ever seen.
I sit on the steps outside and write a couple of postcards and soak up the atmosphere of the place. The clear blue sky – not a cloud to be seen, the peace, the tranquility, the sheer awesomeness of the place and try to imagine it being built so many hundreds of years ago.

Then the smell of food starts to waft around the place and I feel the urge to eat pizza for lunch. I wander around till I find a quiet little spot up a lane, in the shade with a nice soft and gentle cool breeze blowing and take a seat. Now so far in Perugia I haven't seen anything written in English and this menu is no different, so here goes. Along comes the “hottie” Kaydi – looks young enough to be my grandson, but he's cute.

I order Pizza Marinara and a glass of white wine plus a bottle of aqua naturale. Everywhere people drink these bottles of water, either naturale or fizzy, and Sarah told me on the first day of our cycling trip that the water is safe to drink in Italy, so I have been filling my water bottle each day and drinking that. He brings me my wine, and when I say grazie the little cutie tells me he can speak a little English. Oh well good practice for me, and before long my pizza arrives. It looks huge and I wonder how I am going to eat it all, but because it is a very thin base, and the topping is only tomato, garlic and either basil or oregano, can't remember which, it isn't all that filling and I actually manage to eat it all. It is really delicious and washed down with the wine, it's a pretty good lunch.
I then order a coffee – I am getting used to these tiny little cups of espresso – they aren't strong and bitter at all, but rather smooth, sweet isn't the right word, but I can't find the right word to use at the moment.
I linger there in the cool for as long as I can, and then out again I go into the heat to explore some more of this wonderful place.

The middle of the afternoon arrives, and it is time to go back to the hotel for my nanna nap. I decide against trying to find the right bus stop, I am on the other side of the hill by this time and all the bus numbers are different over here, so rather than get lost, I treat myself to a taxi whichonly cost E6.75 and delivered me right at my hotel door. What a great idea.
And so back into the cool of the room. I walk in, and room service have re-arranged my bed – I had tidied it and pulled the bedspread up by apparently not good enough for them, because the bed has been remade, the blind is down, the curtains drawn and the room is in darkness. They have a real thing about having everything closed up here in Italy. This hotel hasn't got shutters, it has these heavy blackout blinds, which don't let a scrap of daylight in from the outside. I find this strange because at home I have my curtains open all the time and the only

time I close them is in the middle of winter to help keep the place warm. I guess here they are trying to keep the heat out, but I look around at the buildings surrounding the hotel and the shutters are drawn all day and night. It looks so unfriendly.

My nanna nap is over, and I am toying with the idea of a swim in the pool up on the rooftop. I might venture up and if there is no-one else about I might just be tempted to get in

My wrist is really painful now, and extremely swollen, not in the joint, but I think more over the scaphoid bone. Moving my thumb is virtually impossible and grasping my drink bottle in my right hand is also impossible. I wonder what I have done to it. I have taken some Panadol, but it doesn't seem to be having any effect as yet. I am not looking forward to having to carry my suitcase again tomorrow, and so was very well controlled today and didn't buy anything that I am going to have to carry home. I am thinking very seriously of buying a parcel box from the post office and posting some stuff home. Shoes and clothes are so amazing here, the price for a top ranging from E49 to E179 which I guess is in the vicinity of what we pay at home. I might splash out when I get back to Montepulciano after I have done my next 11 days of cycling.

I am actually looking forward to getting back on the bike, and having a bit of structure to my days and a set goal for each day. Much as there is lots to look at, I have now had four days of aimlessly wandering about looking at stuff and I am ready to be back to a routine.

It is now morning, what a long night that was. I was awake a lot because of the pain in my wrist, and it is so bad now that I am only able to type using the middle finger and fourth fingers of my right hand. I will have to ring the Headwater rep early this morning and see if they can organise a doctor for me in Montepulciano, and as this is so painfully slow I am going to sign off now' Not looking forward to the train trip with two train changes to get to Chuisi station. More stairs i presume and having to lug my suitcase. Feel like saying a few swear words right now.
Talk to you again from Tuscany.